Changes to Building Exteriors
Statesville Historic Preservation Commission

Page 24


Wood

Throughout Statesville’s historic districts, wood in a variety of applications is the most common exterior cladding and architectural trimwork material. Even the brick homes in the districts are ornamented with wooden porches, exterior trimwork, windows, and doors. Both the building technologies and the preferred architectural styles of earlier eras are reflected in the variety of wooden features and trim found in Statesville’s older neighborhoods. Applied wooden moldings often perform a functional as well as decorative role by accommodating or concealing the joints between different materials
or intersecting planes on the building exterior.

The decorative features of this front porch illustrate the versatility with which wood can be milled.

Planning Considerations                                                                                                                  
Wood is a durable material that can last for more than a century if well maintained and protected from the elements by a sound paint film. However, it ages rapidly if left exposed to rain, wind, and ultraviolet light. Unfortunately, the new fast-growth lumber available today is typically inferior in quality to the slow-growth wood used in the construction of historic buildings. Prolonged moisture is the greatest threat to the longevity of wooden features as it invites rot, mildew, and invasion by insects, such as termites. Even wood surfaces that were traditionally left stained or unpainted should be protected by environmentally-safe preservatives to enhance their resistance to moisture and light.

When replacing damaged wood on porches and other exposed locations, it is best to select a decay-resistant wood, such as cypress or redwood, or pressure-treated wood (wood chemically treated with preservatives during the manufacturing process). If only a section of a wooden member is deteriorated, replacement of the damaged section by splicing or patching in a new section of wood or consolidating the deteriorated wood with an epoxy repair product is preferred over total replacement. Epoxy wood consolidants are particularly appropriate for conserving a decorative element in place when replacement in kind would be difficult and expensive. If only sections of wooden clapboards or porch flooring are deteriorated, it is preferable to selectively replace those areas rather than replace all the clapboards or flooring. Such selective replacement requires careful matching of the material dimensions and details. Staggering the replacement joints so the cut lines do not align will make the replacement less apparent.

Delayed maintenance of wooden exterior features and surfaces can result in peeling paint and more substantial preparation prior to repainting. Because wood is a relatively soft material, aggressive paint removal techniques—including sandblasting, power blasting, and propane or butane torches—are not appropriate as they will  permanently damage the wood and accelerate the aging process leaving a rough or fuzzy raised grain appearance. Chemical strippers should only be used if gentler methods such as low-pressure washing with mild detergents and natural bristle brushes are ineffective

The Mitchon house in the Mitchell College District

Page 25

Guidelines: Wood

1.Retain and preserve historic wood features and surfaces that
contribute to the overall historic character of a building or site.

2.Retain and protect the historic details and finishes of wood
features and surfaces including their configuration, dimensions, and
texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative wood features
and surfaces of historic buildings and sites through appropriate
maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Routinely inspect for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, mildew, termites and other insect or fungal infestation.
• Keep vertical joints properly sealed or caulked to prevent
moisture infiltration. Do not seal horizontal joints in lap
siding.
• Ensure adequate drainage of flat, horizontal or decorative
elements to prevent water from collecting on them.
• Apply chemical preservatives to traditionally unpainted,
exposed surfaces as needed to reduce the damage from
moisture and ultraviolet light.
• Maintain protective paint films on previously painted features
to reduce damage from moisture and ultraviolet light.
• Routinely clean painted surfaces with the gentlest effective
method and repaint surfaces when the paint film is damaged
or deteriorated.

4.Repair historic wood features and surfaces by appropriate
preservation methods including patching, splicing, reinforcing, and
consolidating, as well as using epoxy repair products.

5.If all or parts of a historic wood feature or surface are too deteriorated
to repair, replace to match the original in design, dimension,
material, detail, and texture. If possible, limit replacement to the
deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible substitute material
only if it is not feasible to replace in kind. It is not appropriate to
cover or replace historic wood features or surfaces with contemporary
substitute materials such as vinyl, aluminum, or masonite.

6.If all or parts of a historic wood feature or surface are missing,
either replace them to match the missing original (based upon accurate
documentation) or replace it with a new design that is compatible
with the building’s architectural character.

7.It is not appropriate to add wood features or details to a building
or site in an attempt to create a false historic appearance.

Page 26

Masonry

Statesville has long been known for its manufacture of brick—in the nineteenth century, four brick manufacturing companies were operating in Statesville. Brick facades, river rock cobble foundations and retaining walls, tile roofs, corbeled brick chimneys, and concrete walkways are all examples of masonry features found within Statesville’s historic districts. Even the numerous wood frame houses sit on raised brick foundations. Through a wide range of applications, masonry features contribute texture, color, pattern, and scale.


While several houses in the districts have river rock foundations, the porch, chimneys, and front steps of this bungalow are also constructed of this distinctive material.

Planning Considerations

Masonry surfaces are extremely durable and require minimal maintenance when compared to wooden surfaces. Cleaning masonry features is only necessary if they become heavily soiled or stained and are consequently allowing surface moisture to accelerate their deterioration. Vegetation climbing a masonry wall or foundation plantings too close to the building can also accelerate deterioration by preventing rainwater from rinsing the surface periodically. Cleaning a brick wall is usually a simple matter of using a low-pressure water source (like a garden hose) and scrubbing soiled areas with a natural bristle brush that cannot scratch the surface. However, chemical cleaners may be necessary for difficult stains. Always pretest chemical cleaners in an unobtrusive area to ensure they will not bleach or damage the brick or stone and thoroughly rinse the surface to neutralize the
chemicals and prevent continued reaction. Sandblasting and power blasting are far too harsh for historic brick and stone surfaces but can be successfully used to clean concrete surfaces.

The most common repair for brick and stone features is the replacement of deteriorated mortar or mortar missing from the joints to prevent moisture penetration and subsequent damage. Before replacing the mortar, joints must be carefully cleaned and crumbling mortar removed. The new mortar must be mixed to match the original in strength and visual appearance. If stronger Portland cement mortars are used to replace softer lime mortars, they will eventually damage the masonry units themselves as the units expand and contract due to temperature differences. Matching the color and tooling of the original mortar joint is essential to maintaining the visual integrity of masonry features.

Painting an unpainted masonry feature compromises its historic character by diminishing its inherent pattern, texture, and color. It also requires ongoing maintenance of the paint film. For these reasons, the painting of historic masonry features is not appropriate unless they have been previously painted. Once a masonry surface has been painted, the total removal of the paint without damaging the masonry substrate is difficult and expensive. Consequently, continuing to repaint it, as necessary, in appropriate colors is generally recommended.

Massive brick columns and a patterned slate roof embellish this brick house.

Page 27

Guidelines: Masonry

1.Retain and preserve historic masonry features and surfaces that
contribute to the overall historic character of a building or site.

2.Retain and protect the historic details and finishes of masonry
features and surfaces including their configuration, dimensions,
bonding patterns, and texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative masonry
features and surfaces of historic buildings and sites through appropriate
maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Routinely inspect for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, structural settlement or cracks, loose or missing
masonry units, and deteriorated or missing mortar.
• Ensure adequate drainage to prevent water from collecting
on flat, horizontal or decorative elements or along foundation
walls or piers.
• Clean masonry surfaces when heavily soiled with the gentlest
effective method to prevent deterioration.
• Repaint previously painted masonry surfaces as necessary.

4.Repair historic masonry features and surfaces by appropriate
preservation methods including repointing, piecing-in, reinforcing,
and consolidating damaged or deteriorated masonry. It is not appropriate
to apply a waterproof coating to an exposed masonry foundation
or surface rather than repair it.

5.If all or parts of a historic masonry feature, module, or surface
are too deteriorated to repair, replace to match the original in design,
dimension, material, pattern, detail, and texture. If possible, limit
replacement to the deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible
substitute material only if it is not feasible to replace in kind.

6.If all or parts of a historic masonry feature or surface are missing,
either replace them to match the missing original (based upon
accurate documentation) or replace it with a new design that is compatible
with the building’s architectural character.

7.It is not appropriate to add masonry features or details to a
building or site in an attempt to create a false historic appearance.

Page 28

Architectural Metals

Architectural metal features—including pressed metal shingles, standing seam roofs, wrought iron fences, cast iron railings and grilles, brass hardware, decorative roof finials, and copper gutters— contribute to the architectural character of Statesville’s historic districts. Whether wrought, rolled, cast, pressed, or extruded, the resulting texture, detail, and shape of different architectural metals is generally defined by the manufacturing process. The color may be inherent to the metal, as is the case with copper and bronze, or applied as is the case with ferrous metals, which must be painted to prevent corrosion.

Planning Considerations

Architectural metal features should be inspected regularly for evidence of deterioration. The reaction of metals to the atmosphere and the moisture it contains results in a chemical reaction called corrosion. Galvanic action, a chemical reaction caused by contact between two dissimilar metals, is another source of metal corrosion. While copper, bronze, stainless steel, and aluminum develop a patina that protects them from corrosion, ferrous metals (those metals containing iron) will continue to corrode if they are not protected by a sound paint film. If the paint film is allowed to deteriorate, the metal substrate will begin to rust and flake. To prevent continued corrosion, all rust must be removed from the surface and it must be primed immediately with a zinc-based primer or other rust-inhibiting primer to prevent future corrosion. A metal roof can last for more than a century making
its routine maintenance, repair, and repainting a sound investment.

The proper cleaning technique for architectural metals depends on how malleable, or soft, they are. Chemical cleaners are best for soft metals such as copper, lead, tin, and terneplate because they are nonabrasive and they will not scratch the surface. To ensure the chemical solution will not damage or discolor the metal, a pre-test should always be conducted on an inconspicuous sample area. Corrosion of cast and wrought irons as well as other hard metals can usually be cleaned off by handscraping or wirebrushing before repriming.

Page 29

Guidelines: Architectural Metals

1.Retain and preserve historic architectural metal features and
surfaces that contribute to the overall historic character of a building
or site.

2.Retain and protect the historic details and finishes of architectural
metal features and surfaces including their configuration, dimensions,
patterns, color, and texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative architectural
features and surfaces of historic buildings and sites through appropriate
maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Routinely inspect for signs of moisture damage, corrosion,
structural failure, paint film failure, and galvanic action.
• Ensure adequate drainage of flat, horizontal or decorative
elements to prevent water from collecting on them.
• Routinely clean roofs and gutters of debris and leaves.
• Maintain protective paint films and lacquers on previously
coated features to prevent corrosion.
• Clean painted surfaces to remove corrosion as necessary with
the gentlest effective method and repaint surfaces promptly
when the paint film is damaged or deteriorated.

4.Repair historic architectural features and surfaces by appropriate
preservation methods including patching, splicing, and reinforcing.

5.If all or parts of a historic architectural metal feature or surface
are too deteriorated to repair, replace to match the original in design,
dimension, material, pattern, detail, and texture. If possible, limit
replacement to the deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible
substitute material only if it is not feasible to replace in kind.

6.If all or parts of a historic architectural metal feature or surface
are missing, either replace to match the missing original (based upon
accurate documentation) or replace with a new design that is compatible
with the building’s architectural character.

7.It is not appropriate to add architectural metal features or details
to a building or site in an attempt to create a false historic appearance.

Page 30


Paint and Exterior Color

The Statesville Historic Preservation Commission encourages the use of period color in the maintenance and rehabilitation of buildings within the historic districts, but it does not regulate or review color choice. Ideally, paint colors should be historically appropriate for the age and style of the building and they should be correctly placed on the building but, ultimately, color choice is a matter of personal preference. Today’s market offers a wide range of colors that are historically documented or historically appropriate, so property owners can express their individuality while still maintaining the historic integrity of the house. If requested, the Commission will provide guidance to property owners regarding paint color and placement. Also, the Appendix provides references on appropriate paint colors.

Older residents of Statesville may recall that their houses were always white, and this is indeed true for their lifetimes. In many cases, however, the houses are older than the memories and beneath those layers of white paint is a more varied combination of period colors. If a property owner is interested in repainting a historic building in its original paint scheme, those colors can usually be determined through a paint sample analysis by a preservation professional.

Contrasting paint colors highlight the front porch details and gable shingles of this house.

Planning Considerations

A Certificate of Appropriateness is not required for the painting of any building in Statesville’s historic districts. If repainting an older structure, property owners should be aware that the presence of deteriorated lead-based paint (used commonly through the 1950s) creates a health hazard and certain precautions are necessary to ensure a lead-safe building and site.

Routine cleaning of a painted surface involves washing with a low pressure water source, such as a garden hose, to remove surface dirt and mildew. However, the use of high pressure water or waterblasting is not recommended because they can damage not only a sound paint film but also the underlying material and even force water into a wall cavity. Repainting a building exterior involves careful preparation as well as cleaning to ensure success. Loose or peeling paint must be removed down to any intact paint layers. Usually, handscraping and handsanding are adequate for this step. In some situations, more aggressive techniques such as electric hot-air guns (for decorative wooden features) or electric heat plates (for flat wood surfaces) may be necessary. Because destructive techniques including sandblasting, waterblasting, and using propane or butane torches can cause irreversible damage to historic wood, soft metal, and masonry surfaces, they are not appropriate to use on historic buildings. After a wooden surface has been cleaned, scraped, and sanded, any exposed wood areas should be primed with a highquality exterior primer and any vertical joints recaulked prior to repainting with a compatible paint product. The preparation for stucco or previously painted masonry surfaces is parallel to that for wood. The
painting of architectural metals is discussed on page 28.

Page 31

Guidelines: Paint and Exterior Color

Note: Paint color is not regulated by the Statesville Historic Preservation
Commission.

1.Retain and preserve painted finishes that contribute to the
overall historic character of a building or site.

2.Retain and protect intact historic painted finishes, such as
paints, stains, lacquers, graining, and marbleizing, on exterior features
and surfaces.

3.Protect and maintain the painted or stained features and surfaces
of historic buildings and sites through appropriate maintenance
and repair methods. For example:
• Routinely inspect for signs of paint film failure, moisture
damage, mildew, discoloration, and dirt film.
• Extend the life of painted or stained surfaces by cleaning
them regularly using the gentlest means possible.
• Remove deteriorated paint layers prior to repainting using
the gentlest means possible; however, do not remove intact
paint layers. Consider using heat guns or heat plates selectively
only if handscraping and sanding are ineffective. It is
not appropriate to remove paint films through destructive
methods such as sandblasting, waterblasting, and
propane or butane torches.
• Prior to repainting, ensure that all surfaces are clean and dry,
prime any exposed metal or wood surfaces, and recaulk or
seal vertical wood joints properly.
• Recoat painted or stained surfaces as necessary using compatible
paint systems to maintain a sound paint film.

4.Repaint previously painted exterior features and surfaces in
colors appropriate to the style and period of the historic building.

5.It is not appropriate to paint stone, brick, concrete, or metal
features that were not painted historically.

Page 32

Roofs

The visual prominence of the roof form and pitch makes their preservation critical to preserving the overall character of an historic building. The variety of roof forms found throughout Statesville’s historic districts reflects the diversity of architectural styles they contain. Although both steep gable and hip roof forms are the most typical of the many Victorian-era roofs, gambrel and mansard roofs are found as well as the lower pitched gables of the later bungalows. Corbeled chimneys, prominent dormers, vertical towers, elaborate gable trimwork, exposed brackets, and boxed cornices are all historic roof features that enhance the architectural character of historic roofs. While many roofs are now covered in contemporary asphalt or composition shingles, a number of metal roofs—both pressed shingle and standing seam—are found in the districts as well as slate and tile
roofs, some enhanced by decorative shingle patterns.

This is a good example of an interesting roof in the Mitchell College District.

Planning Considerations

The obvious role of roofs—to shelter from rain and weather—requires diligence in routine maintenance and timely replacement of deteriorated shingles or flashing. Gutters filled with leaves and downspouts clogged with debris can quickly lead to moisture damage. Built-in gutters are concealed from view behind decorative boxed cornices and, consequently, their deterioration may go undetected for some time if not checked regularly. The joints created when chimneys, dormers, towers, or cornices penetrate or meet the roof planes are critical areas for water infiltration and also require careful monitoring.

Deteriorated asphalt or composition shingles are usually replaced with contemporary fiberglass/composite shingles of a similar scale and color. Such roofing materials are not distinctive enough to warrant precise matching; however, slate or tile roofs are quite distinctive warranting the extra effort to carefully repair them and selectively replace in kind rather than replace the entire roof. If properly maintained, slate and tile roofs can last for a hundred years—well over the thirty year life span of a high quality fiberglass shingle roof. Metal roofs require diligent maintenance of a sound paint layer to prevent corrosion; but if well cared for, they too can last more than a lifetime.

Roofs often provide convenient locations for a variety of mechanical and utility elements—including mechanical units, satellite dishes, and ventilators. Skylights as well as solar panels are other contemporary roof features. The installation of such non-historic elements on a historic roof usually compromises its historic character and may also damage historic roof materials or features. For these reasons, locating contemporary elements on historic roofs should only be considered if an inconspicuous location, not visible from the street, can be identified and if no significant historic roof features will be damaged or concealed.

Any reroofing project within the historic districts requires a Certificate of Appropriateness as does the recoating of a metal roof.

Page 33

Guidelines: Roofs

1.Retain and preserve historic roofs and roof forms that contribute
to the overall historic character of a building.

2.Retain and preserve the historic features, materials, details, and
finishes of roofs—including their dimensions, details, patterns, and
texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative wood,
masonry, and architectural metal features of roofs through appropriate
maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Inspect routinely for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, corrosion, or paint failure.
• Replace deteriorated roof flashing as needed with first quality
flashing.
• Clean downspouts and gutters of debris to ensure proper
drainage.
• Clean metal roof surfaces using the gentlest effective means to
prepare for repainting and repaint as necessary to maintain a
protective paint film.

4.Repair historic roofs and their distinctive features and materials
by preservation methods appropriate for the specific materials.

5.If all or parts of a historic roof material or feature are too deteriorated
to repair, replace to match the original in design, dimension,
material, pattern, detail, and texture. If possible, limit replacement to
the deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible substitute
material only if it is not feasible to replace in kind.

6.If all or parts of a historic roof feature are missing, either replace
them to match the missing original (based upon accurate documentation)
or replace them with a new feature that is compatible in design,
scale, material, and detail with the building.

7.Install new gutters and downspouts, if needed, with care so that
architectural features are not damaged or concealed. Paint or select
enamel finishes for gutters and downspouts in colors compatible with
the building.

8.It is not appropriate to compromise the architectural character of
a historic roof by either introducing or eliminating features such as
dormers, chimneys, skylights, and ventilators on roof slopes that are
visible from the street.

9.It is not appropriate to install contemporary features such as
mechanical equipment, satellite dishes, ventilators, solar panels, and
skylights on roofs of historic buildings unless they can be located in
areas that are not visible from the street and do not compromise the
historic character of the roof.

10.It is not appropriate to remove or cover over historic roof features—
such as built-in gutters, dormers, and chimneys—rather than
repair them.

Page 34


Exterior Walls and Trim

In Statesville’s historic districts, frame houses faced in wood clapboards and embellished with wooden trimwork, often in late Victorian- era styles, fill the streetscapes. The forms of some Queen Anne style houses incorporate bays into their asymmetrical shapes; their exterior walls are highly articulated by decorative trim and their gables or second stories are sometimes differentiated from the clapboards by wooden shingles. The exterior walls of more vernacular Victorian houses present restrained variations of the period. Statesville’s large Colonial Revival style houses echo much of the same massing and vertical proportions in their exterior walls but they incorporate more classical, less delicate trimwork. Later bungalows combine simpler, boxier trimwork with a more horizontal, symmetrical form than the earlier houses. The types of wood siding found include horizontal beveled siding, flush board siding, and narrow German lapped siding. Mixed in with the many frame houses from all these period are numerous brick houses.

Wood shingles add visual interest to this elegant house in the Academy Hill District.

Planning Considerations

If protected by a sound coat of paint and kept free of excessive moisture, wood clapboards and trimwork can last indefinitely. However, if a house has been neglected for several years, it may be necessary to selectively replace deteriorated siding and extensively prepare surfaces prior to repainting. Fortunately, wood siding in different widths and finishes and a wide variety of exterior trimwork remain popular building materials today, making any necessary replacement in kind of most historic elements a viable option.

For historic brick houses and the brick foundations of the frame houses, repairs usually follow the occasional cleaning and traditional repointing techniques described in the masonry guidelines. The few stucco walls found in the districts may deteriorate due to moisture damage and then require careful patching with new stucco to match the original in texture, thickness, and strength.

Replacing or covering over wooden clapboards with a substitute siding such as vinyl, aluminum, asbestos, or asphalt is not appropriate in the historic districts because it seriously compromises the architectural integrity of a historic building. Since they do not truly replicate the qualities of wood siding or stucco surfaces, these contemporary materials are not considered appropriate substitutions for the materials they imitate in the historic districts. In addition to eliminating or damaging the original clapboards, the installation process often results in the removal or concealment of architectural trimwork and details. While the substitute sidings may temporarily eliminate the need to repaint the original wood siding, they may also conceal
ongoing moisture problems, structural deterioration, or insect damage— allowing such problems to go undetected. In addition, some vinyl claddings discharge hazardous gases during fires.

Stucco and exposed timbers above lower brick walls are typical of Tudor Revival houses.

Page 35

Guidelines: Exterior Walls and Trim

1.Retain and preserve historic exterior walls and related trim that
contribute to the overall historic character of a building.

2.Retain and preserve the historic features, materials and finishes
of exterior walls—including their configuration, dimensions, details,
and texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative wood,
masonry, and architectural metal features of exterior walls and trim
through appropriate maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Inspect routinely for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, structural damage or settlement, insect or fungal
attack, vegetation, corrosion, or paint failure.
• Ensure adequate drainage to prevent water from collecting on
horizontal surfaces, along foundations, or on decorative
elements.
• Clean surfaces using the gentlest effective means to remove
heavy soiling or prepare for repainting.
• Repaint previously painted surfaces as necessary to maintain
a sound, protective paint film.

4.Repair historic exterior walls and trim and their distinctive
features and materials by preservation methods appropriate for the
specific material.

5.If all or parts of an exterior wall and trim are too deteriorated to
repair, replace to match the original in design, dimension, material,
pattern, detail, and texture. If possible, limit replacement to the
deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible substitute material
only if it is not feasible to replace in kind.

6.If all or parts of a historic wall and trim are missing, either
replace them to match the missing original (based upon accurate
documentation) or with a new wall and trim design compatible in
scale, material, texture, and detail.

7.It is not appropriate to compromise the architectural character of
a historic building by either introducing or eliminating window or
door openings, balconies, bays, chimneys, or vents on its characterdefining
exterior walls.

8.It is not appropriate to remove or conceal material details of
historic exterior walls—including wooden shingles, brackets, panels,
corner boards, band boards, and decorative trimwork.

9.It is not appropriate to replace or cover over historic wall materials—
including clapboard, brickwork, stucco, and shingles—with
contemporary coatings or substitute sidings such as vinyl, masonite, or
aluminum.

10.It is not appropriate to add features or details to an exterior wall
in an attempt to create a false historical appearance.


Page 36

Windows and Doors

Windows and doors add rhythm, scale, and stylistic detail to the buildings in Statesville’s historic districts as they also accommodate daylight, access, view, and ventilation for the occupants. Most typical throughout the neighborhoods are wooden doublehung windows in a variety of pane configurations and paneled wooden front doors, often with glazing in the upper half. Double front doors and entrances with transoms and sidelights add interest to some of the larger homes as well. The variations in sash subdivision—from the straightforward one-over-one sash of many bungalows to the elaborate diamond pane sash of some Queen Ann houses—reinforce the diversity of architectural styles found throughout the districts.


Original diamond-pane upper sashes, like these add architectural character and  should be preserved.

Planning Considerations

It is always preferable and usually more cost effective to preserve original windows and doors rather than replace them. Routine maintenance and prompt repairs, including reglazing sash, recaulking wood joints, and applying a sound paint film, will substantially extend the useful life and energy-efficiency of historic windows and doors. Other typical repairs for doublehung windows include adjusting sash that stick and replacing broken panes or deteriorated sash cords.

For localized areas of deterioration or damage, wood epoxy repair  products can often prevent replacement of the entire sash or door. If replacement is warranted, it always desirable to retain the existing frame and surround, or casing, if possible. Fortunately, wood windows and doors are readily available in a variety of stock sizes and configurations; however, custom-made units are also a viable alternative for the more difficult to match units.

While it is always preferable to match the original unit as precisely as possible, if it is necessary to compromise, it is more important to match the materials and overall dimensions of a window or door than to precisely match the sash subdivision or door panel configuration. The replacement of original wood windows with solid vinyl, vinyl clad, or aluminum clad units significantly diminishes the architectural integrity of a historic building and is not an acceptable compromise in the historic districts. While it is important to retain original stained, leaded, or tinted glass, it is generally not appropriate to replace clear glass with tinted, bronzed, or stained glass in the historic districts.

Page 37

Guidelines: Windows and Doors

1.Retain and preserve historic windows and doors that contribute
to the overall historic character of a building.

2.Retain and protect the historic features, materials, and finishes
of windows and doors—including their configuration, dimensions,
details, and texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative wood, glass,
and architectural metal features of windows and doors through
appropriate maintenance and repair methods. For example:
• Inspect routinely for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, air infiltration, insect or fungal attack, corrosion, or
paint failure.
• Clean surfaces as needed using the gentlest effective means.
• Repaint previously painted surfaces as necessary to maintain
a sound, protective paint film.
• Reglaze sash as needed to prevent air or moisture infiltration.
• Weatherstrip windows and doors to enhance their energy
efficiency.

4.Repair historic windows and doors and their distinctive features
and materials by appropriate preservation methods including patching,
splicing, reinforcing, and consolidating with wood epoxy repair
products.

5.If all or parts of a window or door are too deteriorated to repair,
replace to match the original in design, dimension, material, detail,
and texture. If possible, limit replacement to the deteriorated section
only. Consider a compatible substitute material only if it is not feasible
to replace in kind. It is not appropriate to replace wood windows
with vinyl or aluminum units.

6.If all or parts of a historic window or door unit are missing,
either replace it to match the missing original (based upon accurate
documentation) or replace it with a design sized to the opening and
compatible with the building’s architectural character.

7.It is not appropriate to significantly alter the street facade of a
historic building by either introducing or covering over window or
door openings.

8.Introduce new windows or doors, if necessary, in carefully
considered locations and only on non-character-defining elevations.

9.It is not appropriate to install “snap in” or false muntins in an
attempt to simulate window sash with pane subdivisions.

Note: See the Utilities and Energy Retrofit section for guidelines on storm
windows, storm/screen doors, awnings, and shutters.

Page 38

Porches, Entrances, and Balconies

Deep front porches span the full width of many homes and line the streetscapes of Statesville’s historic districts contributing in significant ways to their overall character. Although the stylistic details vary, the functional and decorative features of these one story wooden porches typically include columns, balustrades, soffits, piers, steps, beaded board ceilings, and tongue-and-groove floors. Second story balconies and an occasional classically detailed two-story portico also can be found within the districts.

Gracious full width front porches that partially wrap around one or both side elevations are found on many houses in the historic districts.


Planning Considerations

The wooden construction of most porches, entrances, and balconies combined with their exposure to the elements make porches especially vulnerable to the elements. The caulking of all vertical joints, maintaining a protective layer of paint, and ensuring that a positive slope (away from the building) facilitates the rapid drainage of rain water from porch surfaces are all important steps in extending the life of a historic porch, entrance, or balcony. It is also important to maintain a sound roof and clear gutters and downspouts to prevent the undetected deterioration of a porch structure.

The repair of porches, balconies, and entrances parallels that of exterior walls and trimwork. Fortunately, most traditional porch materials are still readily available today—including beaded board for the ceilings, tongue-and-groove flooring, and a variety of columns and balustrade designs. For localized deterioration, it is usually preferable to selectively patch in new materials rather than replacing the entire feature. To minimize the visibility of patched areas, stagger the length of replacement members. Often the most cost effective and material conserving approach to patching small areas of columns and decorative trimwork is with epoxy repair products. Larger scale damage may require the splicing in of new wood to match the original. If simple porch elements are deteriorated beyond repair, they can sometimes be closely duplicated in stock millwork. Replacing more elaborate elements may require custom millwork. It is always important to select replacement elements that are of the same scale as the original elements. Likewise, the spacing of new balusters in a porch railing should match the spacing of the original balusters.

Given the prominence of front porches and entrances, it is important to preserve their distinctive features and details. Removing brackets or other decorative details rather than repairing or replacing them compromises the architectural character of the historic building. Likewise, the enclosing of a front porch, entrance, or balcony would significantly diminish the historic character of a building. Even the enclosure of a less prominent side or rear porch should be carefully considered and should only be undertaken if the porch’s architectural character can be retained.

Page 39

Guidelines: Porches, Entrances, and Balconies

1.Retain and preserve historic porches, entrances, and balconies
that contribute to the overall historic character of a building.

2.Retain and preserve the historic features, materials, and finishes
of porches, entrances, and balconies—including their configuration,
dimensions, details, and texture.

3.Protect and maintain the functional and decorative wood,
masonry, or architectural metal features of porches, entrances, and
balconies. For example:
• Inspect routinely for signs of deterioration due to moisture
damage, settlement or structural damage, insect or fungal
attack, corrosion, or paint failure.
• Ensure adequate drainage of water to prevent it from collecting
on horizontal surfaces, along foundations, or on decorative
elements.
• Clean surfaces and features as needed using the gentlest
effective means.
• Repaint previously painted surfaces as necessary to maintain
a sound, protective paint film.

4.Repair historic porches, entrances, and balconies and their
distinctive features and materials by appropriate preservation methods
including patching, splicing, reinforcing, and consolidating with
wood epoxy repair products.

5.If all or parts of a historic porch, entrance, or balcony are too
deteriorated to repair, replace to match the original in design, dimension,
material, detail, scale, and texture. If possible, limit replacement
to the deteriorated section only. Consider a compatible substitute
material only if it is not feasible to replace in kind.

6.If all or parts of a historic porch, entrance, or balcony are missing,
either replace it to match the missing original (based upon accurate
documentation) or replace it with a design that is compatible
with the historic building and district.

7.It is not appropriate to significantly alter the street facade of a
historic building by either introducing a new porch, entrance, or
balcony or removing an original porch, entrance, or balcony.

8.It is not appropriate to add features or details to a porch, entrance,
or balcony in an attempt to create a false historic appearance.
It is not appropriate to enclose a front porch or balcony on the
front of a historic building. Consider enclosing a historic side or rear
porch or balcony only if its original form and architectural character
are maintained.

Page  40

Utilities and Energy Retrofit

In Statesville’s historic neighborhoods, a variety of traditional energy conservation practices continue to benefit today’s residents. Mature trees provide shade for many houses protecting them from the solar gain of direct summer sun. Double-hung windows, typical of buildings in the historic districts, allow residents to control the exchange of fresh air and capitalize on cool breezes. The gracious depth of front porches mediates the intrusion of outside temperatures and offers shady outdoor living areas. Gable vents, tall attics, ventilated crawl spaces, high ceilings, operable transoms, awnings, and shutters are other traditional energy conserving features that continue to offer thermal relief to occupants of historic houses. It is important to accommodate contemporary energy conservation measures, upgrades in mechanical systems, and new communication or utility services in Statesville’s historic districts in ways that do not compromise their historic character.

Planning Considerations

Before initiating new energy-saving steps, wise property owners will capitalize on existing conservation features. For example, air infiltration around doors and windows can often be dramatically reduced if deteriorated weatherstripping and cracked glazing, that seals the glass panes into the sash, are replaced. Their weathertightness can be further enhanced through the installation of storm windows and doors. The addition of insulation in attic and crawl spaces as well as the replacement of inefficient mechanical units are other retrofit measures that may have no visual impact on the historic property but may have substantial impact on energy costs. Maintaining mature shade trees and replacing trees lost to disease or storm damage are
also prudent energy conserving measures.

If electing to install storm windows, select units with narrow profiles sized to fit the openings and finished to blend with the color of the existing windows. Choosing operable storm units will allow owners to continue to open them when desired. Operable storm units that align with the sash subdivision of the existing windows minimize their visual impact. It is important to avoid deterioration of the window sill and sash due to condensation by keeping ventilation holes at the base of storm units clear and open.

Storm doors with full “lights” (large, single glass panes) conceal less of the existing door, minimizing their visual impact—as does selecting storm units that have a baked enamel finish or are painted in a color that is compatible with the existing door.

The visual impact of exterior mechanical units, utility meters, and communication equipment can be reduced through discreet siting. For example, rear or rear/side yards, and rear slopes of roofs are locations generally not visible from the street. Screening through landscaping or fencing can further diminish the impact of such equipment.


Page 41

Guidelines: Utilities and Energy Retrofit

1.Retain and preserve energy-conserving features that contribute
to the overall historic character of historic buildings or sites—including
large shade trees, projecting front porches, operable windows and
transoms, and operable louvered shutters and gable vents.

2.Improve the thermal efficiency of historic buildings through
traditional, appropriate methods—including caulking and
weatherstripping, reglazing loose window panes, and, where appropriate,
installing storm windows and doors, operable shutters, or
awnings.

3.Minimize the visual impact of storm windows by installing
narrow-profile exterior storm windows so that they do not obscure or
damage the window sash or frame. Align the meeting rails of operable
storm windows with the existing sash division of double-hung
windows. Paint or select enamel finishes for storm windows in colors
compatible with the sash color. Storm windows with a bare aluminum
finish are not appropriate in the historic districts.

4.Minimize the visual impact of screen/storm doors by installing
full-light wood or aluminum doors so that they do not damage or
obscure the existing door or frame. Paint or select enamel finishes for
storm/screen doors in colors compatible with the existing door finish.
Storm/screen doors with a bare aluminum finish are not appropriate
in the historic districts.

5.Replace deteriorated or missing wooden shutters with new
units that match the original, are sized to fit the window opening, and
are mounted to the sash side of the window casing so they can be
operated. It is not appropriate to add shutters in locations where they
were not used originally.

6.Install fabric awnings, if desired and historically appropriate,
with care over window, door, or porch openings to ensure that historic
features are not obscured or damaged.

7.Minimize the intrusion of new mechanical systems by installing
units in areas that require the least alteration to the historic building
and screening outside units from view.

8.Minimize the visual impact of new utilities and mechanical
equipment—including heating and air conditioning units, meters,
exposed pipes, cables and wires—by locating them inconspicuously
in areas not visible from the street and screening them from view.

9.It is not appropriate to introduce mechanical or communication
equipment—including solar collectors, satellite dishes, and mechanical
units—in locations that visually compromise the character of a
prominent exterior elevation or a historic roof, or on roof slopes
visible from the street.


Page 42

Accessibility and Life Safety Considerations

If the use of a historic building is changed, a substantial rehabilitation is planned, or there is a need for public access, compliance with current building code and life safety standards may be triggered. For historic properties, some flexibility in meeting current standards is provided in both the North Carolina State Building Code and the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. The Historic Preservation Commission does not review proposed uses for historic buildings; however, it does review proposed changes to a historic building and its site to determine if exterior changes are consistent with the design guidelines for Statesville’s historic districts.

Planning Considerations

Planning changes to accommodate accessibility or life safety requirements while maintaining the architectural integrity of the building and the historic character of a site can be challenging for property owners. It is wise to seek assistance from the commission and code officials early in the planning process. Often, there are several alternatives ways to meet or exceed the pertinent standard. Of course, solutions that minimize the impact of the change on the historic property are always preferable as are reversible solutions.

Frequently, the raised foundation of a historic building requires a ramp or lift to accommodate the change in height from the site to the first floor level. Life safety requirements may call for the addition of a fire exit and/or fire stair. More minor changes such as the addition of a handrail, safety railing, or accessible parking space may be needed as well. Often creative solutions can be identified that meet the concerns of the historic preservation commission as well as code officials.


Page 43

Guidelines: Accessibility and Life Safety Considerations

1.Give full considerations in planning new uses or changes for
historic buildings to accessibility and life safety code implications.
Review the compatibility of such changes with the architectural integrity
of the building and the historic character of the building and site.

2.Seek the input of the Historic Preservation Commission, local
code officials, and preservation specialists in identifying appropriate
solutions that meet or exceed accessibility and life safety code requirements.

3.Meet accessibility and life safety codes in ways that do not
compromise the overall historic character of the building and site.

4.Design alterations to meet accessibility and life safety codes so
that the building’s architectural integrity, character-defining facades,
and significant features are not compromised.

5.Introduce new or additional means of access or egress, if necessary,
in ways that do not compromise the design of a historic porch or
entrance.

6.Design and locate fire exists, fire stairs, or related features so
their visual impact is minimized. Locate such features on non-character-
defining elevations, such as rear walls. Design the feature to be
compatible in scale, materials, proportion, detail, and finish with the
historic building.
Back to Design Guidelines

Free Hit Counters